This is the mother lode of mac & cheeses. I call it ‘The Golden Girl’ because this particular recipe was made for my own golden girl; Bea Goldman. It was a rather special birthday for her and this was a rather special dish.

It recalls certain other Golden Girls through the inherent characteristics of the 4 cheeses of which it is comprised:

The Parmesan is rather ripe and crusty, just like Sophia.

The Cheddar is sharp but soft, like Dorothy.

The Gruyere is somewhat nutty and mild, like Rose

And the Asiago is slightly fetid and melts with very little resistance. Just like Blanche.

This is the ultimate comfort food. The second it hits the oven, golden, cheesy goodness wafts around the house and people are drawn to the kitchen, hands outstretched.

Whilst making it seems as though you are calling upon every pot and surface in the kitchen, it all comes together pretty simply and you’ll have time to wash up whilst it is crisping up in the oven.

Here we go:

Cut the top and tail off the onion, peel off the outer layer and discard. Stud it with the cloves and place it with the bay leaves and milk in a medium saucepan. Heat until the milk starts bubbling and foaming around the edges. Don’t let the milk boil. Remove from the heat and allow to sit and steep whilst you get on with other things.

Meanwhile…

Grate the cheeses and mix well.

Heat a large pot of water for the pasta.

Melt the butter in a large pot or skillet. When it is melted and foaming, add the flour and mix well, a small whisk works best here. This is the roux and it is the start of a bechamel sauce. Stir constantly until the butter and flour turn a nutty brown (about 2 mins). Reduce the heat to medium-low.

Strain the milk and add 1/2 a cup to the roux. Whisk it in and when it is incorporated, add more and more until all the milk has been added. Whisk until it is a smooth, even consistency.

Add a good pinch of freshly grated nutmeg, about 1 tspn each of salt and pepper and whisk in. The sauce will thicken and start to simmer.

Check the pasta water: when it boils, add a small fistful of salt and then the noodles. Cook the pasta until just al dente; the pasta needs to be a little thirsty to soak up the sauce and it will continue cooking in the oven.

Add 3/4 of the cheeses to the sauce and stir until they are melted and combined. Taste: add more seasoning if needed. Another ounce of parmesan will sharpen the cheese flavour, another 2 oz of gruyere will make the sauce richer tasting. A drizzle of truffle oil will send things into a whole new arena. These are all options.

Drain the cooked pasta, but not too fastidiously; a little pasta water is like a yenta when it comes time to introduce the pasta to the sauce. Add the sauce into the pasta pot and mix together.

Pour into a large oven dish.

Toss the remaining grated cheese with the breadcrumbs and spread evenly over the top of the pasta.

Bake at 425f / 220c for about 25 mins or until golden on top.

This pasta is curiously good with a salad of bitter greens mixed with whisper thin rounds of radishes and cherry tomatoes. The cool, spicy, crunchy textures of the salad are the perfect foil for the rich, creamy, blanket-over-the-shoulders warmth and comfort of the pasta.

Of course, a knockout glass of red wine couldn’t hurt either!

The Goods

1 quart / 1 litre milk

1 onion

6 whole cloves

3 bay leaves

2 oz / 55g freshly grated parmesan cheese

4 oz / 110g asiago cheese

6 oz / 165g sharp cheddar cheese

8 oz / 220g gruyere cheese

20 oz / 550g pasta noodles (penne, cavatappi, macaroni)

4 oz / 125g butter

6 tblpns plain flour

salt

pepper

freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 cup white bread crumbs

You will need:

• large pot for pasta
• large skillet or saucepan for sauce cheese grater
• medium saucepan for milk
• large oven dish to bake

Time: 1 hr total, 45 mins active